Back in early May, I had attempted to walk from Giswil to Stans, taking in the mountains of Gräfimattstand and Stanserhorn. I had not expected the snow conditions that I met on the way, and I was forced to abandon the effort a little after Gräfimattstand. But it has been bothering me ever since. Was it just the snow conditions that beat me, or is it possible for a reasonably fit person to do such a walk in one day? And there was only one way to find out the answer: give it another go.
Weatherwise, we have come a long way since those days of early May. Switzerland has been baking in a heatwave for the last week. I set off as early as possible to get the best of the cooler morning conditions. I also decided to start in Sachseln rather than Giswil. So, while most Sachseln was barely stirring, I made my way through the little town. There was a service in progress at the church, so I did not go in.
The route ascends immediately from Sachseln. I knew this part well, both from my abandoned walk, and the later conventional Trans Swiss Trail route to Stans. By nine o’clock, I had arrived in Flüeli. I didn’t stop but went straight on. I passed the churches in the Ranft area without stopping and went on up to the church at St. Niklausen. And that is where I left the conventional Trans Swiss Trail, following the signs for Gräfimattstand. The signs said it would take four hours, and it was 09:15. That should allow enough time to complete my walk.
The trail goes through woodland after St. Niklausen, but it emerges into the light again to once more give fantastic views of Sachseln and the Sarnersee. I met a farmer at Flue. He was checking his cattle, to make sure that they had enough water. We chatted a bit, and then I was going on. The hut at Linderen, empty back in May, was now open, and welcoming walkers. I had planned to stop there, and the pause was welcome. They even sell beer! And from Linderen, there are panoramic views of the valley below.
After Linderen, the route goes back into forest, ascending steadily. It takes to a narrow ridge, and skirts around the rocky outcrops of Hüser.
After Hüser, the trail goes around to the south of the ridge. I had made a navigation error at this stage last time, but on this occasion, there were no mistakes. The route is almost level for s short time as it contours around the ridge, but soon resumes its upward trajectory, bringing me to the summit plateau of Gräfimattstand.
Once again, it was time for a pause. The day was hot, and I needed some water. I started out carrying three litres of water, and on the warm day, it looked like I would need all of that. It was 13:15, exactly four hours from the signpost at St. Niklausen. From Gräfimattstand, I followed the ridge for a while, soon coming to where I had abandoned the walk last time. But this time I went straight on. The ridge was difficult, in places, and I decided to take a lower route that would be easier. It would bring me to the same place on the approach to Stanserhorn. I reckoned that the easier conditions would compensate for the longer distance.
The route is flat at Acherli, and I was able to look back at the mountains that I had come over. Then it was on to Stanserhorn.
By now, I was feeling the strain of walking all day, and I don’t mind saying I was going slowly at this stage. Somewhere a little above the 1600m contour I sat to take a rest. I had not looked at the timetable for the cable car from Stanserhorn, but surely, on an August Sunday, it fine weather, it must be running well into the evening. Nevertheless, something prompted me to get out my phone and check the website for the cable car. I was shocked to find that it would close at 5:15 PM. And it was now 4:45. Just thirty minutes to get there, and more than 200m, of ascent.
Adrenaline is a wonderful thing, and I set off at the best speed I could manage. I would like to say I was running, but that would be an exaggeration. Nevertheless, I got to the cable car station with minutes to spare. The shop and restaurant had closed, and everyone was heading for the cable car. No beer to reward the end of my walk, just the last of my store of water.
The cable car does not go all the way into Stans; it is necessary to take a funicular railway to complete the journey. And as I sat in the carriage waiting to complete the journey into Stans, a black cat walked across the platform. On my previous attempt at this walk, a black cat crossed my path in Flüeli. Perhaps it was unlucky that time, or maybe a warning that I was doomed to failure. This time, I saw it as a recognition of good luck on the day, and recognition of success.
I am left with the question of whether this route is a realistic and practical alternative to the conventional trail route from Giswil to Stans. The answer is probably not. It would be difficult to take in the sights that Flüeli has to offer, and to complete the route all the way from Giswil in one day. But for anyone who allows a day to go from Giswil to Flüeli, as the guide recommends, it should be possible in good weather to go over Gräfimattstand and Stanserhorn in one day.
And finally, my step count for the day was 48,079. On the maps below, the red dots show the route that I hiked, while the blue dots show the cable car and fuicular railway down to Stans.
Walkingman 