The Way of St. James #45

This was written yesterday, September 30th, but not posted until October 1st, due to poor internet connections.

I had a good breakfast at the hotel, and I was on the route by 08:30. Today was a day of two halves, and the first half was definitely the easiest. I left Ainhoa on the road west. The trail stays on this road for about one kilometer, and then takes a little northward track to follow the Lapitxuri Erreka river downstream.

After a time, though, the trail turns west again, following a smaller stream.

The entire morning was a mixture of these forest tracks and roads. Mostly, it was fairly flat, but there were some ups and downs, none of them steep or long. Sometimes the road would crest a rise to give a view of the farther route ahead.

And so I came to the little village of Sare, just in time for lunch. It was a good lunch too, washed down with cold beer. Sare has a church, and it being open, I went inside. There was not much to see, it was relatively sparse compared to many I have seen on my journeys.

I left Sare, once again heading westwards. Leaving the village, the mountains loomed up ahead, but I reckoned I was equal to the task.

I have learned in these walks that I have a tendency to overestimate the altitude I am at early in an ascent, and then to underestimate the altitude getting closer to the summit. And so it was on this occasion. I passed markers that left me deflated when I thought I was higher, and then had a pleasant surprise later. I reached the first col in this way, surprised in the later stages that I had done so much.

There is a tourist train that runs up these mountains, heading for the top of Larrun, or La Rhune. I arrived at that first col in time to see a number of these trains passing, bringing tourists upwards or back. There were sheep and ponies around, who seemed totally unconcerned about the trains. The sight of the animals grazing, while the train goes slowly past seems very tranquil somehow.

Then it was on to the second col. I could see the way down to Olhette without difficulty, but more importantly, I could see the sea. I will see it more often in the next days, but for now, it is a novelty.

Then, it was downwards. The trail is fairly steep, but I managed without difficulty. I have to say that I find the going tougher on the descents than the ascents.

The place where I am staying does not do evening meals, but there is a small restaurant just down the road, and it was nice to walk there without the rucksack. I have had dinner and now I am ready to sleep. But before I go, the total step count today was 39,332