I stayed last night at the Gite d’Etape Domi. There were five travelers staying in the gite, and the proprietor made us most welcome. Dinner was preceded by an aperitif, which was most welcome after walking through the rain for much of the day. And the dinner itself, though not elaborate was most plentiful. It was good food, and exactly what was needed after a hard day on the road. Our host was most convivial and kept a lively conversation going throughout dinner. The gite itself was clean and I slept well. I recommend this gite as the place to stay in Arthez de Béarn.
I awoke early and after a good breakfast, I was on the road at 8.00. Under grey skies, and with lots of water lying in puddles, it did not seem terribly auspicious, but we pilgrims are an optimistic lot so h just kept going. It was not long before I reached the church at Argagnon.
A short distance further brought me across the Gave de Pau and into Maslacq. Maslacq is a small village, but it does have a chateau, albeit run-down, decrepit, and in need of much repair.
After that, it was a question of putting the head down and just keeping walking. And so I reached Sauvalade. Sauvelade was once a very substantial monastery, founded in the 12th century. It was sacked several times, so that today the only significant part remaining is the church.
There is a gite beside the old monastery, and the same gite claims to have a restaurant, but the restaurant was closed. That is not the best way to get customer satisfaction. But I knew that there was another bar and snack place a little further along, so that is where I headed for. At this second place, I had a really good lunch. The man who runs the place is talkative and welcoming.
Once finished in Sauvelade, it was time to once again put the head down and just keep going. Leaving Sauvelade, the small patch of blue sky promised better weather coming, and my optimism allowed me to enjoy and observe the countryside.
I was able to go fairly quickly and soon found myself entering Méritein. I didn’t stop there but kept on going and reached Navarrenx. Navarrenx was fortified in the 16th century, and much of the fortifications are still intact. I would have liked to take longer to see all of the village, but the Chemin was calling.
The town has two sculptures recognizing that this was a staging point on the route to Santiago: one in the church and one just outside the gates
And so I came to Castetnau-Camblong.
I am staying at the Villa Mouchoux, which I would recommend to anyone passing this way. My hosts welcomed me most profusely, and treated me to an excellent dinner. I am the only guest in the gite tonight, so I got all of the attention I have just had a really god dinner, so now it is time to turn in for the night. It was more than worth the effort of the extra kilometres from Navarrenx just to experience the welcome and hospitality here.
But before I go, todays step count was 47,208. I have now come more than 330km in 11 days, with just 58km to go.
Walkingman 