The hotel in Conques did not serve breakfast until 08:00. Even though I made sure I was in the dining room before that, it did not seem to matter. The breakfast was not ready until 08:00. As a result, it was after 08:30 when I was ready to depart. It was not exactly raining, but it was damp, and I was unsure whether to put on the raingear. I decided against it, and in spite of a few drops now and again through the day, overall I got it right.
The track descends through the town, and reaches a low point at the small stream just west of town. And then it was steadily upwards through the forest. After 1.5km, the track comes to the tiny chapel of Sainte Foy. The chapel itself is not very interesting, sparse and bare like many on the route, but the location does provide an excellent view backwards towards Conques
After the chapel, the route continues upwards, reaching the ridge after another kilometer or so, and then leveling out. The trail then takes to roads for a while, and eventually reaches Noailhac after a total of 7km
The café in Noailhac provides a welcome rest and refreshment, as well as a stamp for the Creantiale.
It is worth discussing the Creantiale at this point. It is also known as the Pilgrim Passport. Basically, you are supposed to get it stamped at each nightly resting place, and there are also some churches and other places where you can also get a stamp. Then, when you get to Santiago, the people there can see that you have genuinely made the journey, and you get your certificate.
So after coffee in Noailhac, I got my stamp and went on. The first reference point was the wayside chapel of Saint Roch.
Then the route ascends back to the ridge again and continues westwards. There were times when the markers for the route were few and far between, creating some doubt as to whether I was on the right track, but I kept going anyway, and I got it right. There were occasional panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, but in general this was just plain walking.
Eventually the time came when the route started to descend in earnest and I eventually got my first view of Decazeville. I came down into Decazeville ready for something to eat, but everything was closed except for one bar and one patisserie. Sundays in France can be very dead. I met two other walkers who remarked that the town was like a desert. But in fact it is not just a Sunday thing. Walking out of the town, there were quite a few shops clearly after ceasing trading for whatever reason. Decazeville does not look like a prosperous town that it going places, and I was actually glad to leave.
After Decazeville, the route ascends again, and after 2km reaches the Church of Saint Roch, midway between Decazeville and Livinhac. This small wayside church is not particularly interesting but it does offer a stamp for the Creantiale
Further on, Livinhac itself was visible through the trees. The route descends rapidly to the current bridge across the River Lot, but it is clear that there was another older bridge just upstream. I walked on into Livinhac, and found my lodgings for the night at the gite.
Right now I have just had a good meal, and I am ready to sleep. But before I finish, today’s step count was 39821. Somehow I thought it would be more, but it is as it is.
Walkingman 